Drawn to Minnesota’s North Shore

Kamloop

Admittedly, my knowledge and experience regarding Minnesota’s North Shore rivers and its history is limited. That changed last week on a four day outing, headed up by my friend Bill Sherck, aka “Man About the Woods”. The group, composed of 5 hearty fly anglers with lofty goals, made our base camp at Temperance River State Park. Each day we set out in different directions, searching for the elusive steelhead and Kamloop rainbows that return to these North Shore rivers to perpetuate their species circle of life. The reconnaissance efforts were made and the timing looked promising. The following is our story………………..

LOGISTICS

The North Shore is loosely divided into three geographical areas as you travel from South to North. The Lower Shore, which takes in the areas from Duluth north to Gooseberry Falls State Park; the Middle Shore, which reaches from Split Rock State Park to Temperance State Park; and the Upper Shore, which includes all destinations North to the Canadian border. The rivers we fished all intersected HWY 61, which is the main thoroughfare spanning the North Shore.

CONDITIONS

The Baptism River

Conditions, when traveling to the northern reaches of the United States and especially along the North Shore of Lake Superior, can be summed up with one word. Variable. Previous to our arrival, ice storms had shattered the tops of 75% of the sizable birch tree population along the middle and upper shores. Ice was reported to still be 2 feet thick on the lakes of the upper shore and rain and snow continued to fall with regularity throughout most of these areas. This was the first week of May!

On Wednesday Bill and I loaded the truck to the gills and headed North. The anticipation was high and the stories built the excitement. In Duluth, there were tales from Bill’s childhood loves and hockey tournaments.  There was the trip to Greatlakes fly Co. and a stop for lunch at a favorite pub. Then there was the stop at the Fitger’s Brewhouse to pick up the mighty Growlers of Beer. What is a Growler you ask? A growler is a 64oz nalgene container of beer perfect for camping to avoid the nasty garbage of cans and bottles around the camp site. The Ted Kopelbock and the Hemp seed brews were the overall favorites. As we wove our way up the shore we stopped at Kendall’s Smoked Fish House to pick up some fresh Lake Superior salmon smoked to perfection and wrapped in yesterday’s newspaper to complete the local taste testing. Upon our arrival at the State Park, our lake view site was chosen and the tarp engineers went to work. When camp was set we gathered firewood from the  hundreds of splintered birch tree tops that scattered the park. The birch was green, I was told it would burn, if we got it hot enough. The rain began to fall……………….

The rain continued through the early morning Thursday putting a slight damper on our visions of clear, fishable water. The crew split in two directions, one north and one south.Along the way we met up with other anglers searching for fish and fishable water.

Bob in the Mist

We spoke with DNR employees who cordially offered information on the watersheds and current conditions throughout the entire North Shore. Their help was appreciated and given in a manner of genuine interest to helping us succeed on our adventure. All of the DNR staff we spoke to on our trip were knowledgeable and friendly. It was as it should be. At the end of the day the rivers of the Upper Shore were not ready to beckon the fish from the big lake. Too frigid, too early, for Mother Nature’s call. The anglers on the Lower Shore had found fish. Near the end of the day, Bill hooked a fish on the Baptism River.

Jacob and Tim

Friday was a day of renewed hope with no extra rain. The group headed south to the Lower Shore. Anglers were congregated on a few rivers where reports of fish being caught had been prevalent. There was more than enough room though, and anglers were respectful of each other. The report came over the radio that Tim had landed a fish. About the same time I caught my first one. Two casts later another. Both fish were bright and put up a tremendous fight. The small size and high gradient of the Stewart River made landing the 6#plus fish a high energy experience. The size and strength of these fish can easily break you off if they get into the faster currents. By the end of the day there were a number of hooked fish and a few landed. The stories around the camp fire were filled with the experiences of life and fishing too. The green birch did burn…..eventually…….when we got it hot enough. All was well in the world.

My trip to the North Shore was a memorable one. I made new friends. I learned about the rivers and the road that  parallels the giant lake, and why it has called so many to return again and again. I once again learned that change is the only constant. This knowledge was passed along by place and person. A person whose passion for the North Shore is unmatched. Bill’s stories streamed with the mystery and memories that have woven a path to his heart. The place speaks for itself. I will return………..